Trains, Tors and Towers

Now here's somewhere I've been before. In October 2008, I spent a couple of days in Munich when I was inter-railing. Then, I had come direct from the hustle and bustle of Berlin, and Munich seemed quaint and sleepy.  This time, coming from quiet little Salzburg, Munich feels like a metropolis, huge, crowded and noisy.  Nonetheless, it's a city I really like, and one I have been itching to get back to for some time.

Our train delivers us into Munich station spot on time, having taken us through idyllic Bavarian scenes, little churches poking out of snowy villages.  Munich itself is free from the white stuff, so the novelty of walking on pavement without the fear of slipping over is really very pleasant.

Karlstor, Karlsplatz

In the city centre square, Marienplatz, the Christmas market is in full swing.  It's a lovely situation in the shadow of the seriously imposing Neues Rathaus - the new town hall - which dominates the square.  The markets continue in the rathaus courtyard, and in other courtyards around the city centre, and we wind up perching at one stall with a sausage and some chips, whilst a giant Christmas windmill turns in the far corner.

The Neues Rathaus

Christmas markets in Munich

I tell Lizzie that, as we are in Munich, we must pay a visit to the Englischer Garten, one of the world's great green urban spaces, a mere ten-minute walk from the city centre.  When I was last here, the park was bedecked in the reds and golds of autumn, but on a cold winter's day, the English Garden is toned significantly down.  There are still things to see here though, not least a gaggle of geese crossing the footpath in efficient formation.

Geese in the Englischer Garten

Lizzie in the Englischer Garten

Back in the town, we visit the church of St. Peter.  Known locally as Altes Peter ("Old Peter"), this is the oldest church in Munich, the current structure dating back to 1368.  For a couple of euros one can climb the bell tower for a magnificent view, and as the rain has held off, we decide to try our luck.  The ticket man - a student - enjoys my attempt to get the tickets in German, but we are soon on our way up the 306 wooden steps, held together with beams so that you can see back down the tower again.  It's quite a sobering thought to think you are climbing up the middle of an ancient tower, with only some old brickwork separating you from an unfortunate collision with Marienplatz, and the whole experience makes my head spin.  Reaching the top is a curious mix of euphoria and terror - we are caged in, but that familiar feeling to vertigo sufferers the world over kicks in, and I find myself instinctively clinging to the inner wall, and passing people on the inside.  Lizzie, meanwhile, appears to be enjoying the experience a lot more, and so she might - the view is phenomenal.  To the north is the Allianz Arena, built for the 2006 World Cup and home to both Bayern Munich and 1860 Munich football clubs.  Depending on who's playing, the entire stadium will glow red or blue at night.  Far closer is the city's cathedral, the Frauenkirche, and the lovely rooftop of the old town hall, whilst stretching off into the distance is the Free State of Bavaria.  It really is an unmissable experience, yet one that I am delighted to get out the way.

St Peter's Church

The New Town Hall and Frauenkirche, Munich'c cathedral, from Old Peter

Back on terra firma, we pay a quick visit to the church itself, and then go in search of the River Isar, which lies to the east, just beyond the city gate known as the Isartor.  If we had a day or two here, the Deutsche Museum, on the east bank of the river, would be the place to go - the largest museum of science and technology in the world, it gets rave reviews from every circle.  Instead, we content ourselves with a view of another European river, whilst Lizzie polishes off a bag of roasted chestnuts bought from a local street vendor.

The River Isar

It's dusk already, and after a stop for mulled wine and a weissbier, in a very traditional tavern where the women wear lederhosen, we enter the Frauenkirche, whose high ceiling and narrow nave has a somewhat special feel to it.  Perhaps it's because it is Christmas, or maybe it's the simplicity of the interior, but I find it a sanctuary of peace and tranquility in what has been a manic day.  Outside, the shoppers are still charging around the streets in search of their Christmas presents, but inside is like another world - calm, relaxed, a perfect place to stop.

Enjoying a weissbier

Munich is more-or-less as I remember it, only busier and with less street entertainment than my previous visit.  On this occasion, it has completely worn us out, and it is with quiet relief that we watch the city slide slowly past the window of the 19:19 back to Salzburg.  I still love the place, though, and who knows - maybe we'll be back here in another four years.

Max Joseph Platz