Sunday 30 August 2015

Snooping around the Old Forde House

In the market town of Newton Abbot, a stone's throw from the A380 and the Penn Inn roundabout, sits a grand old jewel of a house. Everybody in town knows of it, and each day thousands watch it pass by their car windows, probably with nonchalance.  Separated from the roadside by a generous green, upon which local dog walkers and ramblers will stroll gently under its shadow, with a stately air and granite-grey facade, lies arguably the town's most well-known landmark, our beloved Forde House.

Forde House's wood-paneled entrance hall 

Many years ago, as a little eight-year-old, I paid a visit here on a school trip examining the Tudors and Stuarts.  Today, for the first time in 22 years, I passed through its front door once again, Teignbridge District Council (owners and occupiers since 1978) having begun, last year, a series of summer open days.  The history of the house can be dated back to the 13th century, although in its present form, the house is around 400 years old, remodelled in 1610 into its familiar Jacobean appearance.  Built in the shape of an E, as were several manor houses of the age, it is said to have been a tribute to Queen Elizabeth I, although Her Majesty died in 1603, seven years before the completion of the building.


The parlour

To me, this is the most historically important building in town (apologies St Leonard's clock tower, Bradley Manor, and our lovely railways station,) for in terms of a building keeping beat to the pulse of history, this house saw it all.  Perhaps most famously, King Charles I stayed here in 1625, en route to Plymouth to review the fleet, before it set off for the Cadiz Expedition, and returned some days later, staying a further two nights. In 1643, having captured Exeter from the forces of Parliament during the Civil War, a band of the King's cavaliers stayed here before travelling on to take the port of Dartmouth.  Three short years later, it was Parliament who were put up at the house, when Oliver Cromwell and Colonel Fairfax, more heavyweight names of English history, were hosted on their way to retake Exeter, and march towards eventual success in that bloody conflict.  

Engraving by J Henshall, around 1835 after a painting by R Brown (source: Wikipedia)

Fast forward 45 years and, now in the hands of the Courtenay family of Powderham Castle (see also: Courtenay Park in the town,) Forde House again played host to royalty.  After a brilliant landing at Brixham, William, Prince of Orange, stopped by at the onset of the Glorious Revolution.  William of Orange would march on to London for his coronation, but his first declaration on English soil was made at the foot of St Leonard's tower in the town.  Today, a plaque there reads:

"The first declaration of William, Prince of Orange, the glorious defender of the Protestant Religion and the liberties of England, was read on this pedestal by the Rev John Reynall, Rector of this parish, on November 5th 1688."

Thus began one of Britain's most important events, one that eventually led to the Bill of Rights, a cornerstone of British democracy.  Forde House played a role in this story.

Lizzie at the Old Forde House

We were treated to a very well-informed tour courtesy of a local historian with terrific knowledge and passion for his subject, reeling off the life history of the building and its historical context, without even the briefest of glances at his notes.  It certainly shed new light on a house that I pass nearly every day, and one that I hold now in higher regard still.  Forde House, like so many familiar, forgotten gems across the country, is a witness to the amazing story of English history.  You won't find it in many history books, save for a footnote or perhaps a mention in an index, but I really believe that places like this are where our history was made, ideas formed, and inspiration gained by the icons of our past.  This makes them invaluable, and is exactly why I jumped at the chance to explore it once again.  A far more detailed potted history of the house can be found on the Teignbridge District Council webpages, and is worth a read.

Sunday 23 August 2015

Glorious Gulls - An underdog story

It's tough following a small football team.  There are more lows than highs, there is more pain than joy, and there are more miserable Saturday afternoons than you would find in the average Manchester United or Chelsea household.  Following Torquay United, as I have done for the last twenty years (longer, if you include my six-year-old self's trip to Wembley's famous twin towers in the 1991 play-off final)  I think it's fair to say that I, along with many others in south Devon, have lived a never-ending rollar coaster cheering on the Gulls; and what better way to re-live all the delight and agony, than with a visit to Torquay Museum's latest exhibition, Glorious Gulls - An Underdog Story.



Of course, there's far too much in this packed-out little exhibition to mention here, for within is documented the life of the football club, from humble beginnings to the... erm... humble modern age.  The journey begins at the club's 1899 formation, carries the visitor through those faltering first few years, its election into the Football League in 1927, and its many achievements since that time, including promotions, Wembley visits, and cup ties against footballing royalty such as Tottenham Hotspur.


Torquay United in 1927.  Note the black-and-white stripes, which earned United their first nickname - The Magpies
FA Cup third round programme, 1965.  Torquay secured an amazing 3-3 draw in this match thanks to goals from Atkinson and Stubbs.  The replay at White Hart Lane was captured by the newsreels - you can see highlights by clicking here

One of my favourite aspects of the exhibition was the old photographs, blown up large for the information boards.  Prolific goalscorer Sammy Collins, signed from Bristol City in 1948, scored 219 goals in 379 games for the Gulls, and set a goal scoring record in the 1955-56 season with 40 League and two cup goals.  There's also a shot of Jim McNichol and police dog Bryn, famous to all Torquay fans.  On 9 May 1987, Torquay United hosted Crewe Alexander in the final league fixture of the season.  Finding themselves 2-1 down with moments remaining, United were heading out of the Football League.  Jim McNichol paced down the wing and whipped in a cross, in the process confusing Bryn the police dog, who promptly ran onto the field and bit McNichol on the leg.  Medical treatment led to several minutes of stoppage time, from which Torquay defender Paul Dobson somehow found the net, saving Torquay's position in the Football League at the very death, and propelling the German Shepherd to local stardom.  Quite simply, it could only happen that way at Plainmoor.


Sammy Collins scores again
Jim McNichol shakes the paw of Bryn

There is also plenty of memorabilia from within my memory of supporting the Gulls, starting with the shirt worn by Kevin Hill in the 2008 FA Trophy final, which marked the midfielder's record-breaking 474th appearance in yellow.  Hill was a bit of a cult hero when I was a teenager, an ever-present throughout the years and held in high regard by the Torquay faithful.  There's also a nod, in caricature form, to one of my favourite players, St Vincent international, Rodney Jack.  Jack was banging in the goals at around the time I started regularly attending Torquay matches, and largely through his goals, United reached the Division 3 play-off final in 1998.  After defeat to Colchester, Crewe signed him for £650,000, but fans like me never forgot those lightning performances in yellow-and-blue.


Kevin Hill's FA Trophy final shirt
Rodney Jack
There's so much more to see and remember; automatic promotion under Leroy Rosenior in 2004; ultimate relegation into non-league football, twice; all the ups and downs in one well-thought-out and colourfully put-together exhibition, which will thrill Torquay United supporters and anybody else interested in the history of local football.  Of course, our visit coincided with a match day, and what better way to round off a trip down football's memory lane than by taking a seat in the familiar old ground, the usual crowd, the colours, sights, sounds and smells of your home football team, and with a 1-0 win to boot!  Real Madrid it ain't, but it's just as historic, and just as important to its fans.  This visit reminded me just how much I love my football - now come on you Yellows!



You can see all the photos from my visit to the Glorious Gulls exhibition by clicking here.

Sunday 16 August 2015

High Rippon Tor

I tramp o'er the moors in the fresh morning air,
The breeze in my face, so bracing and rare.
Deep golden gorse amidst heather I saw,
Whilst climbing "up over" high Rippon Tor.


The track through the bracken on velvety turf,
Grey rocks, lichen-cover'd, and red-brown earth,
Wild shaggy ponies that graze on the moor
Watch me climb "up over" high Rippon Tor.


Whortle berries brushed with purple-hued bloom,
Their leaves vivid scarlet, and all attune
With ling and trefoil bespangling the moor
Like a patchwork carpet o'er Rippon Tor.


The views from the crest are a joy to behold,
Peak'd hills and far distant tors they enfold,
The sun-touched sea shines all bright like ore,
As I stand right atop of Rippon Tor.
Violet Francis