Showing posts with label Menswear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Menswear. Show all posts

Wednesday, 15 October 2025

Foyle Style

An unexpected morning to myself last weekend turned into a perfect (and rare!) opportunity for some "me time", especially as Storm Amy laid waste to my plans to mow the lawn (so unfortunate!)  Instead I sojourned back to 1942 to watch an American "invasion" take place on the streets of Sussex, courtesy of Foyle's War.  

Yes, Mum will like this blog.

Now Foyle's War is exceptional autumn viewing, a flavourful mix of history and drama, with its intriguing plots that often land somewhere in the grey area, testing the viewers' sense of morality, of right-and-wrong.  To give a couple of examples from previous episodes, should a Nazi sympathiser be allowed to voice his opinion in a free and democratic society?  Is it ok that a murderer is allowed to go free, because his role is essential to the war effort?  This is a programme that runs deeper than a period murder mystery - it challenges us to clarify our feelings and confront our contradictions, and it exposes the truth - that right-and-wrong is never as clear-cut as black-and-white.

I digress slightly, but I think my point is that the lessons of Foyle's War are incredibly pertinent today, as our social media ages rushes to draw clear distinctions on any topic, without consideration of differing viewpoints or lived experiences.  Have a quick browse on X (the artist formerly known as Twitter) and you'll probably agree with me that we could all learn a bit from Foyle's War.

There's something else going on with Foyle, though, and beneath the complexities of the writing, there sits a central character who epitomises standards, and embodies the idea of a role model.  Detective Chief Superintendent Christopher Foyle is thoughtful, eloquent, determined, and has a strong moral compass which he uses to govern his behaviour, upholding the law and challenging corruption, often from above and in situations where it would be easier - and personally safer - to leave well alone.  He is loyal, but not to the point where he wouldn't take a friend to task if necessary, and he is thorough and tenacious, whilst simultaneously understanding the nuances of life, particularly in a time of war.  He speaks honestly to friends, truth to power, and doesn't compromise his integrity for anyone.

Then there's the clothes.  The three-piece, pure wool suit with the peak lapel jacket, most likely worn with a red silk tie (in reality probably toxic rayon, for silk was not widely available in wartime Britain, yet Foyle's ties are certainly not of knitted wool), and of course a camel wool overcoat and fedora (sometimes matching a blue suit, other times khaki). 

It is, in effect, the perfect outfit, but one I am unlikely to emulate, firstly because I am not Michael Kitchen; and secondly because, although I own suits, they are not day-to-day wear for me and my lifestyle.  So instead, I've created a couple of outfits inspired by Foyle and wartime style, but which give me scope to wear out and about in a modern way.

1. Foyle "Lite".  This is an outfit I can get on board with.  I've chosen my air force blue herringbone jacket and matching waistcoat here, a lovely two-piece that is amongst my favourites.  This sits over a plain white shirt and a tie that has some detailing, but hopefully not too loud.  For trousers, I've used navy cords, but would easily wear this with brown or biscuit; and on top, my trusty navy fedora.  I've also popped on my Grandad's Air Training Corps lapel pin.


2. The Airman.  I've been playing with this outfit for a while.  The jumper is reminiscent of the RAF cadets, but I've gone in a more comfortable direction below, again using my navy cords for the season.  Slung over the top is my Joe Brown's "military" jacket.  There's a relatively simple, almost austere feel to this look to this outfit that I quite like.  Finished off with this lovely RAF shoulder bag that only recently fell into my possession.


3. The Flying Tiger.  The biscuit button-down Oxford shirt is a classic piece in a men's wardrobe, paired with khaki cords.  On top, I've gone for this inexpensive olive chore shirt, onto which I have ironed a couple of patches to make this really individual.  There's the US Air Force star on the sleeve, and on the left breast pocket a little tribute to the Flying Tigers, an incredible group of American volunteer pilots who, under the command of Claire Lee Chennault, defended the skies of China from the Empire of Japan, in one of the war's most extraordinary stories.  Worth looking that man up, if you get a moment.


So, a little bit of the wartime spirit coming through here, but with enough style - I think - to wear out in the everyday.  Hopefully the man below would approve... or is he simply laughing at me?

Thursday, 25 September 2025

Styling the rugby jersey for Autumn

Here's something that has boomeranged back into my life - the rugby shirt.  Do I like playing rugby?  No.  Do I still have nightmares about being forced into a weekly session of violent egg-chasing back in secondary school?  Yes.  Do I like watching rugby on the TV?  Yeah, sure.  Do I love the style of a rugby jersey?  Absolutely!

Or at least I used to - but I can't actually remember the last time I wore one.  Then, staring out the window at the eighteenth consecutive day of rain-sun-rain, and wondering how I was going to dress for this new season of changeability, I had a Road to Damascus moment.  It's not cold enough for knitwear.  It's not warm enough for a shirt.  But it is classic layering season, and what better to layer up than a iconic rugby?

I should say that I love dressing for autumn, and there's definitely something of the autumn about the rugby jersey.  It's tied in deeply with the falling leaves, the worsening weather, those back to college vibes, and the start of the sporting season, a time when walking in the drizzle is a pleasure for being properly togged.  So this season, I'm going all out for the scholar-meets-sportster style.  And here are three ways I'm going to make it happen.

1.  Autumn stripes.  I love the pop of colour that a rugby shirt offers, and this rather lovely mustard / maroon / navy Cotton Traders combination embraces the changing face of the natural world.  I'm wearing this on top of a white Henley, which has a hint of yellow stitching to complement the jersey; and throwing over a half-length mack to catch the showers.  On the bottom, wine-coloured jeans.

2. An Ivy look.  I've chosen one of my favourite sporting shirts, the utterly iconic Springboks jersey, worn over a light blue striped shirt to create a comfortable layering effect.  The 'boks emblem just elevates this outfit to a new level, paired with a mid-brown herringbone jacket (one of my favourite wardrobe pieces, from the always-excellent Brook Taverner) and cords to create an informal collegiate look.  I'm off to the lecture now, then onto the rugby field.


3.  A day in Dartmouth.  One, perhaps, to wear at the annual food festival down in the South Devon town.  I'm trying to stick to a maritime palette here, with a navy check shirt that hopefully complements this lovely quartered jersey from Joules.  The jacket is Joe Brown's mock military, enough of a tribute - I hope - to relate to Dartmouth's famous naval college.  Contrasting this are my darkest indigo jeans.  Dartmouth is an autumn staple for us because of its annual food festival, a wonderful chance to explore the best food in the West, and stock up on some Christmas treats!


Three easy rugby outfits for the coming season, which should see me through the cold, the wet, the unseasonably warm, and anything in between.  And yes, while I'll try to catch a couple of the Autumn Internationals, you're unlikely to see me diving around a muddy field - I'll leave that bit to the pros!