Disney's most famous characters are all here, waving, blowing kisses, beaming out those ubiquitos Disney smiles that are obviously part of the job description. Alan Whicker, in his exploration of Disney World in 1971, was told about pixie dust, that sprinkle of magic in which every employee of the Disney Corporation is expected to immerse themselves, during every second of their work. It comes out everywhere - the shop assistants, the grounds keepers, the waitresses and the ride attendants - but nowhere is it more pronounced, more obvious, more explicit, than during the iconic Disney Parade.
The spectators gather all the way down Main Street, ushered into neat rows by stewards who seem to part the crowds like Moses at the Red Sea. The pitter-patter of the rain, and the wind blowing up the cobbles, betray the warmth of feeling running through the crowds. From the distance comes the sweet sound of jovial music, and over heads can be seen a mob of colour, slowly making its way along the road, a stark contrast to the dismal grey drizzle. We pick a spot behind two of the smallest children, a tactic that ensures an excellent view, and as the first float approaches, a little girl turns to her mother and asks, enchanted: "Mommy, are the characters real?"
There follows a cacophony of sight and sound, as all those heroes and heroines - plus a few villains thrown in for good measure - file past. They're playful, involved, interactive, and choreographed to perfection. The kids love it, the adults admire it, and despite the cheesiest soundtrack that ever was written, it goes down a storm. New faces to the Disney repertoire mingle with old favourites like King Louie, Merlin the Wizard and Mary Poppins, and it's pretty hard not to get swept along in the fun and good nature of the afternoon.
After sunset, Disneyland takes on an altogether different character. The shops and eateries, lit up like Christmas trees, become all-the-more inviting, whilst Sleeping Beauty's castle seems bigger, and much more sinister. Disneyland after dark, where the rides shut down one-by-one, and where spaces filled with laughter only hours before, become the dim home of shadows and echoes. By 8pm, everyone has made their way to the foot of the castle, where they wait in hushed anticipation. If the afternoon's Disney parade is good, then what happens later in the evening is world-class. A mind-blowing display of waterworks, fireworks, and animation is played out for twenty minutes, to ooos, aaaahs, cheers, claps, gasps and the odd sing-along. It's a new high, the very pinnacle of all the entertainment on offer, and leaves a lasting impression on the audience that makes you realise, these guys really know what they're doing.
It's a fine way to leave Disneyland, basking in its own fantastic display of lights and lasers, and there is a certain awestruck feeling in the air as the spectators stream for the exit. For us, it's a magnificent farewell to Walt, and tomorrow a train back home, where life will once again pick up its rhythm and routine. We know Disneyland isn't the most authentic location for a holiday, and it doesn't exactly score highly for a cultural experience. But dig a little deeper under the surface, as I've tried to do with this series of blogs, and you'll find a world of history, literature, and music, all of which are bound deep within the Disney story. It's not so much the park itself that sticks in the mind, but the homage to heritage that it represents, and that has been so proudly and brilliantly presented at almost every turn, by people who really know how to put on a show worthy of the world's greatest animator.
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