A million miles from anywhere

Last week, Lizzie and I hit the Atlantic Highway through Cornwall, destination Padstow.  Now, even though I'm a born-and-bred Devonian, the land across the border has always been something of a mystery to me - for no particular reason, I've seldom visited Cornwall in my life thus far - but the little north coast port is a favourite of Lizzie's and, as it turns out, is a delightful place to while away a day or two, especially if you're staying at a hotel as pleasant as the Metropole.

The Metropole Hotel, the 'Pride of Padstow'

Padstow

Padstow itself is a town of fine atmosphere, with a friendly mix of visitors and locals alike, centred around the little harbour, from where its fishing industry makes this more than a simple tourist hotspot.  The myriad coastal shops are mostly rather lovely, and sell all the usual seashells and model boats, but there's also a luxury element to their wares - fine cookware and foodstuffs are a reminder of the town's affinity with cuisine, and the name of Rick Stein can be seen at every turn (hence the town's alternative name, 'Padstein.')  We didn't see Rick on our trip, but were nearly knocked over by Paul Ainsworth, who was in the act of transporting a bottle of bubbly to one of his restaurants.  Beyond the numerous shops and restaurants, one has to mention the war memorial, sat with prominence over the estuary, and notable for the adjacent wildflower meadow, stunning in the evening sunshine.

Padstow's war memorial

Wild flowers by the war memorial

One of the town's top-rated attractions is the National Lobster Hatchery, which is dedicated to marine conservation and seafood sustainability.  The centre is looking to combat the over-exploitation of the local waters, by working with fisheries to conserve the vulnerable lobster population, and through their work, both biodiversity and the local fishing community stand to benefit.  When local fishermen catch a pregnant lobster they bring it here, and within the maternity tanks, the team grow baby lobsters from the eggs, leading them through their most vulnerable stage, before they are released back into the wild around the Cornish coast.  It is reckoned that, in the wild, one in 20,000 lobster hatchlings will live long enough to breed - last year, 53,000 juveniles were released into the wild, so the benefits to sustainability are really very clear.

Charlie the spiny lobster, one of the centre's residents

A juvenile lobster

Taking the ferry across the Camel Estuary, and no doubt skimming over thousands of lobsters beneath, we make next for the settlement of Rock.  If Padstow retains some of the grit and salt of fishing in its blood, then Rock is by contrast the playground of the rich.  Properties here, which must hit six zeroes, are afforded spectacular views of the estuary, the beaches, and the ocean beyond, and the sailboats bobbing gentle in the breeze suggest a life of leisure.  Rock Beach itself stretches off beautifully into the distance and out of view, and as we find a suitable spot to enjoy a Chough Bakery pasty, I notice a number of sand martins flitting across the beach, and diving into little sandstone nests.  It also hasn't gone unnoticed that there's an awful lot of 'beach aster' in Rock, instantly recognisable because I'm growing it at home - perhaps one day, I'll end up with a display as magnificent as this.

Young sand martins

Erigeron Glaucus 'Sea Breeze" - the beach aster in abundance

Arriving back in Padstow, there's just enough daylight left to take a stroll along the coast path and into the countryside.  In no time at all we've completely left the town behind us, and are in the middle of a glorious meeting between two worlds - to the left, wheat fields stretch away under playful swallows, whilst to the right, the cliffs give way to golden beaches.  It's an amazing feeling of contentment to stand, wind blowing in your face, a million miles from anywhere - I get now why people flock here from all over.

On the coast path

Pause for a photo on the coast path

A beautiful couple of days in this lovely corner of Cornwall, over all too quickly as we pack our bags and make our way back up the A30, vowing to return, and uttering the words: "Oh, we could easily do it as a day trip."  I think it's fair to say, we haven't seen the last of Padstow.

Rock Beach, looking over to Padstow