Showing posts with label Exeter Cathedral. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Exeter Cathedral. Show all posts

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Exeter Looking Back, Exeter Looking Forward

Seventy years ago, the city of Exeter had wrought upon it the most devastating chapter of its history.  Exeter had long been considered one of Britain's most beautiful cities, from its medieval bridge, through its winding streets, to its magnificent cathedral.  On the evening of 4th May, 1942, this was altered forever, as the Blitz came shockingly to this peaceful city.

Devon had seen its fair share of German bombs in the course of the Second World War, with the enormous naval base of Plymouth bearing the brunt of the raids.  Exeter, however, was different; it had little military importance and, although a railway junction, there was little strategic gain to be made from the destruction of the city.  Military strategy, however, was not on Hitler's mind when the city was targeted - Exeter was a revenge bombing.  In March 1942, the R.A.F. razed the beautiful German city of Lubeck, and in retaliation the German high command highlighted several English cities - amongst them Bath, York and Norwich - to receive similar punishment.  As much of the information was taken from Baedeker travel guides, these raids became known as the Baedeker Raids.

Exeter had already received two minor raids in April, but nobody could have predicted the events that unfolded in the very early hours of 4th May.  At 01.36 in the morning, around 20 Luftwaffe bombers flew up the River Exe and dropped incendiary bombs, designed to ignite and cause roof fires. Despite the heroic efforts of firefighters, the flames spread quickly, and by 02.15 the High Street was ablaze.  At 02.50, the bombers turned around to return to their base, leaving behind a city engulfed in an inferno. 

Firefighters battled through the night, as Exeter lost historic buildings and unique architecture.  Among the biggest architectural losses was Bedford Circus, one of England's most notable pieces of Georgian town planning, widely regarded to be on a par with Bath's Royal Crescent.  Through the burning night, the city lost 1,500 houses (with a further 2,700 receiving substantial damage), 400 shops, 150 offices, 50 warehouses, and 36 pubs.  Eyewitnesses claimed that in some places the fires burned for a week afterwards.  In the morning, residents emerged to find a foreign city, flattened and unrecognisable - a scene that was repeated across Europe in six years of very cruel war.

The human cost of all the bombing raids on Exeter during the Second World War stood at 265 killed, 111 seriously injured, and 677 injured to a lesser extent.  Many of the dead were fireguards who gave their lives trying to protect the city. 



    


Exeter's Latin motto is Semper Fidelis, meaning ever faithful.  There can perhaps be no more fitting a motto for a city that, following this dreadful night, kept its faith and its belief, as was so iconically enshrined in the photos of the cathedral, poking through the devastation.  After the war, the rebuilding of the city began - there was a faith in a new age, more peaceful and prosperous than anything ever known before.  This culminated in the publication of Thomas Sharp's Exeter Phoenix Plan, which led to the city's new centrepiece, Princesshay shopping precinct, the first pedestrian-only shopping street in the country.  Building began in 1949 when the then Princess Elizabeth unveiled a commemorative plaque.  The Phoenix sculpture, one of Exeter's most prominent public sculptures, was erected in the centre in 1957 by Hughes of Exeter, on the sight of their former premises, to symbolise the city's growth out of the ashes.  Exeter was back on its feet and ready to move forwards.


The Princesshay shopping precinct survived until the turn of the 21st century, when it was torn down and replaced with a newer, more modern facility.  For some (but certainly not all!), this more accurately signifies the return of Exeter's prosperity over a period of some 65 years.  Opened in 2007, the new precinct has been a hit with residents and non-residents alike, so much so that, two days before the 70th anniversary of the bombing raid, it was revisited by  the now Queen Elizabeth II, as part of her Jubilee tour.  The crowds were out in their thousands to welcome Her Majesty, who looked radiant and lovely, truly regal in every sense.  Beyond the excitement of the day, however, lies a much more poignant meaning to her visit, for there can surely be no more proper a tribute to those who lost their lives in the Exeter Blitz than the sight of a crowd of thousands cheering their monarch, at the very heart of the city, under a very British flag.  It is surely a sight that every Blitz victim would have wanted to see.


With thanks to the always brilliant Exeter Memories website for the three black-and-white photos, http://www.exetermemories.co.uk/



Sunday, 18 March 2012

My Exeter Day

If there's one place I love to spend a Saturday in this beautiful county, it's Exeter. Devon's thriving capital is undoubtedly my favourite place in the region and if you know the city well, you can eschew the crowds of the high street and still never be short of things to do.

Tris and I like to start our visit to the city with a trip to our favourite bar, The Oddfellows. It's a sophisticated place with an air of class and style that is becoming more and more reputed for its delicious, locally-sourced food. Top of the list for most people comes the Sunday roast, but the imaginative menu has many tasty and interesting delights on any day of the week. I also think the bar is one of the cosiest in the city - the perfect place to while away a winter's evening. Here, one reprobate waits for his drinks at the bar:



One of the best things about visiting Exeter on a Saturday is seeing how lively and bustling the city is. For me, this is best experienced by watching one of the many local talents performing in the streets. My favourite in a guy called Jerri Hart, who fills the streets with fabulous renditions of the old crooner songs. I didn't see him yesterday, but one of my other faves, a band called Spin 2, were in position outside Marks and Spencers. Spin 2 play Irish folk style music, and are great entertainment, always drawing a crowd.



If it's Saturday and we're heading down the high street, it's very likely that we're on our way to the quay, via the individual shops of Fore Street. There are two or three absolute gems down here - a great toyshop, two lovely vintage clothes shops, and a unique place at the very end of the road called Otto Retro. Otto is quite an experience - a mixture of the old, the classic, the kitch and the chic, you can find almost anything within its four walls, and no two days are ever the same. Tris is usually seen making some sort of purchase in here, whilst I'm likely to be found fawning over a piece of furniture, in this case, a beautiful cocktail cabinet. If only I had the space for it, this would be a definite for me.



From Otto, it's just a short walk past the Medieval Bridge to the beautiful quayside. On summer days this is the place to be in the city, and the bars and ice cream stalls are packed out with people enjoying the sunshine. Yesterday was a slightly calmer affair, but it is still a lot of fun to browse the shops. There is an antiques mall here, local craft workshops, and souvenir shops, but I'm mostly interested in a shop called Eclectique, selling a variety odds and ends, the perfect place for gift ideas.



The most enjoyable way back to the city, I think, is to head up to Colleton Crescent, a masterclass in late Georgian architecture that, fortunately, survived the Blitz when so many other period buildings were destroyed. This probably comes top of my list in places I would like to live in the city, and the main reason I come this way is to play a little fantasy, and choose which house is mine. I nearly always opt for the one with the biggest balcony, this lovely property below. Not ever so long ago, one of the apartments here sold for a million pounds; I suppose for now the fantasy will have to remain just that!



Back in the city centre, and getting towards the end of the day, there is one more place that would complete our visit; Exeter Cathedral. The Cathedral Church of St Peter was completed around 1400, and has the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in the country. It is also said that the nursery rhyme Hickory Dickory Dock was written about a mouse seen in this cathedral. On our visit yesterday, there was a choir practice in session and, let me tell you, the acoustics of the building are phenomenal.



Every day in Devon's capital is different, every weekend bringing with it new shops, new stock and new bands. And the wonderful thing is, you don't need to step into any of the main shops to find them. I'm already looking forward to the next time I can get up to this wonderful city!