#PrayForPlymouth

Photo credit: BBC Radio Devon

A happy Burgh-Day

Well first-off, hello again world! Nich About Town has been on hiatus for most of 2019, but the time has now come to foray back into the wonderful online world. Not that anybody's missed out on much of an update since last year's honeymoon, for most of our energy this year has been put into our home's building project - more the follow on that.

So to Autumn 2019, and if it's November it must be (yet another) birthday. Last year, 18 November was spent on a plane flying back from Australia, so this year, as if to compensate, Lizzie secretly booked us afternoon tea at the Burgh Island Hotel. 

So  a little bit about the history. Built in 1927 at the height of the marvellous Art Deco style, the hotel quickly became one of the most popular, a real icon of the era. Its location, oppulence and architecture lent itself to the rich and famous, with notable guests including Lord Mountbatten of Burma (last Viceroy of India); Edward VII and Wallis Simpson; Noel Coward; Agatha Christie; and Winston Churchill. 

The world may long have faded since those confident days, but the hotel appears to have lost none of its charm over the decades. Our table in the Palm Court afforded views of both the beautiful coastline, and stunning bar, stocked to the rafters with every conceivable liquor. Tea, as expected, was top-notch; tasty scones with champagne strawberry jam and cream, sandwiches, cakes, a sumptuous spiced pumpkin creme brulee, and a choice of cocktail on arrival. Well, why not...

All-in-all a lovely place to while away a birthday afternoon, in a place that takes you 90 years back, and a thousand miles away from anywhere. Thanks Lizzie!

Suddenly Summer!

Well, it's certainly the case that nobody can complain about the bank holiday weather this time around, as we bask in blue skies and full sun, whilst enjoying the all ever-rewarding three-day weekend.  So far this weekend (for 'tis only Sunday evening) we've been quite predictable - a trip for lunch in Torquay, lots of quality time spent in the garden, and a long and rewarding walk in the countryside today.

It was actually one of the most enjoyable walks I've ever been on, as we left the front door and headed over the hill towards the Teign Estuary.  The footpaths and public right of ways here are quick to leave the suburbs, and we were soon strolling in delightfully Devonian lanes, high banks giving way every now-and-then to field gates, from which one leans to take in spectacular views.  The banks were thick with scented English bluebells, stitchwort and red campion, to the delight of all manner of butterflies - peacocks, orange tips, speckled woods the most abundant.  Even better, when we paused at one gate to admire the vista, we noticed a rustling going on at the foot of the gatepost, glancing just in time to see the back half of a grass snake disappear into the undergrowth.  No time for a photo, but certainly a great wildlife moment for me - it's the first wild snake I've ever actually seen.

The lane here eventually wends its way to the village of Netherton, which looks like a lovely place to live, contains many a thatched cottage, and is home to the Mare and Foal Sanctuary at their idyllically-named Honeysuckle Farm.  We soon found ourselves walking through fields of rescued horses and, true to form, Lizzie was soon saying hello to one friendly equine.

Netherton behind us, we eventually came across the estuary, and Coombe Cellars pub, which was in its element in the midday sun.  Sail boats drifted by, people were paddling away in canoes, whilst others looked on from the shore sipping their drinks and watching the world go by.  We found a spot in the shade, and as we listened to the waters lapping the shore, I had the distinct feeling that I was on holiday.  Could you possibly want to be in any other part of the world on such a day?  I couldn't imagine it.

Moving on again, our walk turned from the lovely countryside, and we followed the Teign estuary - still tidal at this point - back towards Newton Abbot.  The walk here follows the historic Templar Way, although they're being a bit liberal when they call it a footpath, for here were slippery rocks and big trees blocking our path.  Nonetheless, it's a very lovely aspect - looking across the water we watched trains come-and-go, whilst up the estuary was the very familiar shapes of Hay Tor and Saddle Tor, and the hills of eastern Dartmoor.  Eventually we reached the A380 road bridge, under which we passed before picking up the Aller Brook, which guided our way home.  A six mile, four-hour adventure that we would both do again in a heartbeat, and no better way to spend a sunny Sunday in our wonderful part of Devon.

Goodbye rhinos

Was it really back in sunny August that we stepped out on safari and followed the rhino trail around South Devon?  Well, believe it or not, the trail has ended already, with a crescendo of art, colour and horns adorning Paignton Zoo for one weekend only.  Here was a chance to see all our friends together again, and to catch up on some of the more outlandishly-located creatures that we missed the first time around.  Before that, however, here's a round-up of some of the rhinos we found since my last blog post.

Big Sweetie, an ingenious piece of art that incorporates everything sweet shop.  Foam shrimps, gummy bears, twister lollies, it's a trip down memory lane for the sugar fiend, and one of the funniest rhinos on the trail.  I particularly like the "for keeps" love heart, once again bringing the conservation message home; afterall, nobody wants to lose the Javan and Sumatran rhinos.  Meanwhile, in Torquay town centre, Rhino an old lady who swallowed a fly (get it?) takes us through that particularly quirky nursery rhyme, with a granny rhino displaying each stage of the story, from the spider, the bird, the cat, the dog, the cow, the horse... She's dead of course!  Rhino an old lady comes complete with her own horn fly too, a little touch that perfectly completes the piece.

On Paignton Sea Front, Rhinoctopus stole the show in my eyes, a lovely seabed scene in which a large pink octopus takes centre stage.  Incorporating coral and clownfish, it's a tropical nod to biodiversity that really appealed to my fishy tastes.  Paignton has also been the home of Oh I Do Like To Be Beside the Seaside, a take on the traditional British beach holiday, complete with sand castles, ice creams, and good old Punch & Judy.  It sort of fits perfectly in the faded glory of Paignton's Torbay Road, a throw-back to the days when this really was a destination of distinction, but celebrating the still-beautiful stretch of coastline that makes up this wonderful bay.

To Paignton Zoo, where the great gathering of rhinos was in full swing, all lined up neatly like a conservation army.  Here we had a chance to sweep up some of those we missed, such as Stella, which showcases endangered animals in the stars, and Rhino Why the Caged Bird Sings, which just has an intrinsic beauty that I'm not sure I even understand.  The impact of having so many rhinos in one place is a sight not-to-be-missed, giving - for the first time - a real understanding of the scale of the project.  I mean, what an effort by Paignton Zoo, once again giving the people of South Devon a world-class art trail for all ages.  Through the mindless moments of vandalism and antisocial behaviour of a tiny minority, the project has shone through to give a summer of pleasure to thousands of locals and tourists alike - we two included.  Thanks to the zoo for this, and for their conservation work generally.  You can see a gallery of all rhinos on my Flickr page.

Finally, to my favourite.  Or favourites, as there's two that stand out for me.  the first, Blossom, we snapped at Bernaville Nurseries near Exeter.  It appeals to the gardener within me, and would surly look perfect up by our summer house.  The second, which would also not look out of place in our back garden, is Woodland Safari, a celebration of native nature, and a reminder that you don't need to travel far to enjoy a safari of your own, to find fascination in the British countryside, and do your bit to help our embattled wildlife no matter where you live.  I guess that's the message that this project has spent a summer trying to get across - it certainly wasn't wasted.  So bye bye rhinos; and let's hope it's only the sculptures to which we bid farewell.

Two years home

We're celebrating two years (two years!) since moving into our first house, and my my, how the time has flown.  Moving back to Newton Abbot has been good for us; we enjoy the town, the surrounding countryside, and the fact that the coast is four miles away.  I certainly feel part of a community here and the town, whilst small, is bustling, with a lively centre and several quality independents.  One which we use regularly is the Pizza Cafe - and what better to order in for our two-person party?

After a frantic first year, life has mellowed at Oak Tree Drive.  There's still much to achieve - the oven repairman visited recently and was aghast at how the gas pipe had been installed by the previous occupants; the carpets still need replacing; and our internal cupboard space still needs some attention - but at least it feels like home and, piece-by-piece we're getting there.  One thing that's certainly doing well is the fish tank - the plants have matured, and the fish have grown, all the while enjoying this peaceful little corner of the Amazon.  Obviously there's also the garden, the subject of many blogs, in which the biggest transformation of all can be see in the new borders and carefully-placed wildflowers, ferns and shrubs.  If last year was about learning and feeling our way around the plot, picking up rubbish and digging new ground, then this year has been all about the plants and the wildlife - and it has all been wonderful.

So that's it for year two in our ownership of the place - I wonder what things will look like in September 2017.

Great Big Rhinos!

Three years ago, I blogged about a fabulous series of gorillas that had made its way to South Devon, as part of the Paignton Zoo and Wild in Art initiative to raise awareness around conservation.  It was - and it remains - one of the greatest art trails I've ever seen, taking us from the streets of Exeter to the coast of Torbay, with all manner of places dotted in between.  Following the trail, the gorillas were auctioned in aid of Paignton Zoo's conservation projects around the world - if you're lucky and look hard enough, you can still see one-or-two of them on display in public places.

The memory of the fantastic gorilla trail may have faded, but now we've been invaded again - this time by rhinos - as Paignton embarks on another awareness campaign that has kids and adults alike rushing, camera in hand, to get a glimpse of one of these life-size masterpieces.  Forty-two of them, to be precise.  Our own trail, which is still far-from-complete, began in Exeter, with an immediate favourite, Cath, which makes a thought-provoking statement on conservation.  Beautifully designed, the rhino carries with it the heart of Exeter's stunning Cathedral.  The foundations of Exeter Cathedral were laid nearly 1000 years ago - will we ensure the Javan and Sumatran rhinos have the same time ahead of them?

Another personal favourite is Dino Rhino, a take on the extinction of other once-prevalent species.  The evocative portrayal of prehistoric scenes, mingled with close-ups of long-lost sabre-tooth cats and woolly mammoths, really bring impact to the artist's question, do we really want the rhino to be just another distant memory?

Aquamarhino stands proud in Exeter's Princesshay shopping centre, perhaps a comment on our own consumption of the earth's natural resources.  A net of fish flounder - one brilliantly incorporated into this rhino's eye - suggesting that if our current trends continue, even more biodiversity will be wiped out of existence.

Down in Torbay, the rhino madness continues with Sun's Out, Horns Out, Lizzie's favourite on the trail, and certainly a fun design that is best suited to Torquay's sea front.  You certainly have to admire the attention to detail - from the splattered ice cream and bright armbands, down to the dainty sandals.

Up on Babbacombe Downs, meanwhile, the rhino Tranquillity surveys what must be the best view on the trail.  This one speaks of a world at peace, of perfect nature cooling down under the watercolour of an African sunset.  Perhaps the artist is giving us a glimpse of what we should enjoy, value and connect with in this world, as well as a reminder that the best things in life really are free.

There are, of course, many more rhinos that we haven't got to yet - Be sure to check out my Flickr page, which I'll be updating as we go around ticking these off the map.  You can - and probably should - also see the Great Big Rhinos webpage, for more about the art trail and conservation of these beautiful, iconic creatures.

A lazy hazy summer morning in Babbacombe

A 1920s holiday, the Devon way

Look what I discovered recently in a junk shop in Clifton Village!  Sitting in amongst a collection of vintage travel guides featuring locations nationwide, this little Ward, Lock & Co's guide to Torquay and South Devon leapt out at me.  Well I was more than tempted, and with change from a fiver, how could I say no?  Ward, Lock & Co were a London-based publishing company, which became famous for its "red guides" at the turn of the 20th century, and continued in business until 1964, when the company was split.  This guide was published in 1925, and for the particularly eagle-eyed amongst you; yes, that is the Torquay town coat of arms on the cover, bearing the town's motto Salus et Felicitas (Health and Happiness... obviously the motto-makers weren't Torquay United fans, ha!)

It's easy to get absorbed in the interesting local adverts, such as W.H.Gubb & Sons' popular motor trips into the heart of Devon from Ilfracombe; Ye Olde Whitpot Mill Tea Gardens (under new management) of Kingskerswell; and Torquay's Lincombe Hall Hotel ("charming situation, four acres of lovely grounds, the Acme of comfort and refinement...")  There then follows a list of hotels and boarding establishments, in which my eye particularly picks out Torquay's Osborne Hotel, the Redcliff in Paignton, and Newton Abbot's long-since-closed Globe.  The previous owner of this little book also pencilled an 'X' next to all the places they intended to visit during their holiday.  It certainly seems that this lady or gent got about, visiting many sites in Torquay (Torre Abbey, the Museum, Babbacombe, Kent's Cavern, Anstey's Cove, St Marychurch, Cockington, Compton, the church at Marldon, and Watcombe,) Newton Abbot, Ogwell, Torbryan, Paignton, Berry Pomeroy, Brixham, Totnes, Dartmouth, and a cruise up the Dart.  What a holiday!

So, what does the guide have to say about our towns, coast and countryside?  Some places have evidently changed beyond recognition, whilst the character of others appears to have remained intact, nearly a century on.  There's too much detail, of course, to transcribe the entire book here, so below are a few gems I've picked out, that speak of the interesting history and unique character of my neck of the woods:

"Since Kingsley and Blackmore gave to the world Westward Ho! and Lorna Doone, much has been heard of the grandeur of the North Devon coast scenery, but it was the beauty of South Devon - Torquay with its terraces, trees and sheltered nooks, Dawlish with its pretty Lawn, Teignmouth with its Den, Dartmouth and its land-locked harbour, Totnes with its ruined Norman castle, and the tortuous river Dart - that won for the county its fame as one of the playgrounds of England."

"Not merely because its cliffs are so lofty and picturesque, its sea so blue, its vegetation so rich, its site so well environed, its gardens to attractive, or its harbour so admirable, but because it enjoys all these features in so complete a combination, Torquay asserts with reason its claim to be the Queen of Devon."

"Few watering-places in England have made such strides in so short a time as Paignton.  Little more than thirty years ago a mere village, unknown to the world at large and associated by natives of the surrounding district with its sweet flatpole cabbage... Paignton has rapidly developed into a flourishing seaside resort... Nestling in a valley in the centre of Torbay, and surrounded on all sides by hills which afford a magnificent views of the sea and land, Paignton has every reason to look forward to a prosperous future."

"No one who stands on the quay and surveys the scene - the many fishing boats and trawlers, with their red-brown sails, in the inner and outer harbours and the fishermen and boys on the piers - can be in doubt as to the trade of Brixham.  It has been called the mother of the trawl fishery in England, and even the men of Grimsby and Lowestoft are said to have learnt their cunning from Brixham men who settled on the East Coast to be nearer the North Sea...  Special interest attaches to the Parish Church of Lower Brixham from the fact that its first incumbent was the Rev. Henry Francis Lyte, who wrote the beautiful hymn "Abide With Me," so popular with Christian communities in all parts of the world."

"Apart from its historical associations and its central situation, there is little to commend Newton Abbot to the visitor to Devonshire, who has all this fair county to choose from for his holiday, but since it has become nearly as good a centre for road as for railway traffic, bringing it into close touch with sea and moor, it is attracting an increasing number of holiday-makers... The town stands in a beautiful vale, watered by the river Lemon, which flows into the Teign a short distance below the spot where that river changes its character as a boisterous moorland stream for that of a placid estuary...  Newton is very proud of its War Memorial, which is unique in Devon."

"Totnes is one of the very few places in the kingdom where the curfew bell is still rung... The town is seated in the midst of the South Hams, a district not improperly called the "Garden of Devonshire," and is the centre of an important cider industry.  It was spoken by Camden as a "little town hanging from east to west on the side of a hill" - a description that still holds good."

"Buckfastleigh, where an ancient Abbey which has for forty years been occupied buy a community of Benedictines, who are rebuilding it gradually."

"Ashburton, beautifully situated in a very lovely country, with some of the most attractive portions of Dartmoor within comparatively easy reach.  The town stands on a small tributary of the Dart."

"Dartmouth is one of the most picturesque and interesting old towns in the country, and no one visiting South Devon should go away without seeing it... The old town retains many of the features of bygone centuries.  Narrow streets with overhanging houses, may not be beautiful in themselves, but they have a peculiar interest.  It is in its setting that the town is so attractive.  With the river in front and the hill towering behind, the effect is very fine."

"Kingsbridge is not a town of importance or of great beauty.  It owes its prosperity to its situation in the centre of the South Hams, where agriculture has always held up its head."

"Salcombe can, in summer, also be approached by steamer from Dartmouth, Torquay, Paington, Teignmouth, Exmouth, and Plymouth.  It is a delightful day trip down the rugged Devonshire coast, past the Start Lighthouse, at the extreme end of Start Bay... The sight of the beautiful harbour from the steamer is alone sufficient reward for the journey...  Salcombe is developing fast, and finds difficulty in accommodating the increasing number of visitors who throng it every season."

"The Dart is still referred to as "The English Rhine" but there is little resemblance, or the Dart would not be so beautiful as it is... It would be impossible to exaggerate the charms of the Devonshire river.  What other stream is so typically English, so intensely Devonian?  It sweeps along in leisurely fashion. Beyond all question, the way to extract the most pleasure out of the Dart is to drift along with the tide in the glow of a summer evening, when the sunlight slants across the stream, turning the reaches into golden lakes, and when the dense shadows of the gigantic oaks that bend over it contrast with the resplendent branches far above.  Under such conditions the voyager may well let the sweet influences of the scene intoxicate him, and make him content lazily to drift on down the shimmering stream between the banks."