Ploughs, Puppets and Perchten

Rolling out of bed a little later than usual, I draw back the curtains to reveal the hotel courtyard, covered in perfect-white snow.  It isn't inches thick, but it's enough to make Salzburg appear picture-postcard perfect for our last full day in the city.

The snow ploughs are out in force when we reach the old town, bulky bright orange vehicles with massive shovels on their fronts.  Their role in the winter is absolutely crucial, keeping the arteries of the city clear for traffic.  It is obvious that those who operate these vehicles thoroughly enjoy their challenge, and who wouldn't - I think they look like great fun to drive.

Snow Plough hard at work

Our destination - and the weather really has made this the perfect day for it - is Festung Hohensalzburg, the city's fortress, which sits like a mighty crown on the Festungsberg Mountain, keeping careful watch over the city as it has done for over 700 years.  It is reached by way of a funicular, from which Salzburg's squares, spires, towers and rooftops fall away with some rapidity.  From the top, there is not an inch of the city hidden from view, and it is almost fairytale-like to look over.

A snowy view over Salzburg

Inside Festung Hohensalzburg

Festung Hohensalzburg is the best preserved fortress in Europe.  Construction began in 1077 and was expanded on for centuries, becoming more-and-more fortified as the importance of Salzburg grew.  Inside, the fortress houses a military museum, but the best experience is gained from simply wandering the complex, archways and alleyways, and admiring the view.  Looking away from the city, the fortress itself is overshadowed by the mighty Untersberg, shrouded in wintry mist.  In one of the outlying fields, a singular house, surrounded by a neat little hedge, stands very lonely.  This is Hangman's House, the home of the fortress executioner in days gone by.  As nobody wanted to live next to him, the hangman was made to live a solitary existence, surrounded only by grass and, in December, snow.

Lizzie and the misty Untersberg

Hangman's House

Within the cavernous, dungeon-like fortress, we discover a delightful museum dedicated to string puppets.  The Marionette Museum may be only one-room in size, but it is on the good side of quirky.  Exhibits include the Sound of Music characters and a recreation of Mozart's homecoming following his tour of Europe.  It makes for a fun (not to mention warm) ten minutes.

Mozart in the Marrionette Museum

Back down the fortress funicular and into the slushy streets, we go in search of the Nonnberg Convent - the oldest convent north of the Alps - but find it closed for the week.  This gives us the rest of the day to have a final wander through the markets, where the atmosphere has definitely intensified as the week has gone on.  Excitement is actually close to fever pitch, as the residents of the city prepare for one of their pre-Christmas traditions - the releasing of the Perchten.  According to local tradition, the Perchten is a demonic creator, half man, half god, who appears at the end of the year accompanied by evil figures.  These evil figures not only help her to protect the residents of the city, but also assist her in dishing our punishments.  We squeeze into the packed cathedral square, and watch as lederhosen-clad men perform with whips and instruments.  At the far end of the crowd, screaming starts, and the Perchten - a man dressed in a hideous mask - is let loose on the crowd.  Her minions - in equally grotesque attire - carry giant pairs of scissors, which snap at onlookers who are too close to the action.  Lizzie and I edge slowly backwards, slightly bemused but also absorbed - this is one custom we'll probably never witness again, and it certainly captures the imagination of the locals.

The Nonnberg Convent

Nightfall in this beautiful city, our final meal taken in an individual little restaurant with an Austrian-Italian-Indian edge, where we tick another first off our list with a dessert of Salzburger Nockerl.  This dish, which is only made in Salzburg, is a sweet soufflé, a mountain of meringue topping over a mix of forest fruits, very difficult to describe.  The presentation represents the hills surrounding the city - Gaisberg, Mönchsberg and Nonnberg - whilst its dusting with powdered sugar resembles their snow covered peaks.  It is perhaps a bit too eggy for my taste, but it's a fine way to finish the week in classically Salzburg style.

Nockerl

We wander back to the hotel in the evening chill, all along the way bidding farewell to places we have grown to love in a few short days - Salzburg Cathedral, Getreidegasse, the River Salzach, Cafe Habakuk, the Christmas markets, St Peter's Abbey...  Tomorrow we will be on a plane back home, back with our families, to a place where the only white Christmas is on a greetings card, where snowmen are the realm of Disney films, where the climate will be positively balmy.  But in our hearts, we'll be taking mountains and markets, rhinos and reindeer, snow ploughs, string puppets, hockey pucks, fortresses, churches, ice skates, sachertorte, nockerl, and plenty of snow.  What a beautiful place!

Which nutcracker to choose?

Nightfall in Salzburg