A Day in Dartmouth

The sun was shining, there was a calm and warming breeze, it was that most rare of things - a fine weekend.  Lizzie had a birthday on Friday, so to compensate for having to spend the day at work, we took a boat trip to Dartmouth on Saturday.  We've previously taken the river cruise from Totnes, so decided instead to hop aboard a ferry around the coast, leaving from Torquay, via Brixham.  Our vessel made the whole experience even more interesting, for we set sail on none other than the Fairmile, a World War II flat-pack boat commissioned to recuse downed Spitfire and Hurricane pilots in the English Channel.  The Fairmile also played its part in D-Day operations, and once picked up a group of German prisoners from a sunken ship, taking them to Dartmouth.  Apparently the life-span of these boats is only ten years, so to come aboard some seventy years later really is to board a piece of British maritime history.

Dartmouth was looking serene under the bright blue sky, and we had a wonderful three hours exploring the little lanes and quirky shops of the town.  I actually thought the whole town was looking really good - clean, bustling, and very few empty shop units.  In the Royal Avenue Gardens, a fete was in full swing, and who could resist a little flutter on the tombola?  What's more, we even managed to win two prizes - a jar of Napolina pasta sauce, and a bottle of delicious Golden Lion syrup (is there any greater prize?)

Back on the waterfront, it's a pleasure to sit and watch the many and varied vessels navigate their way up and down the beautiful River Dart.  This is the starting point for ferries to Salcombe, Dittisham, Totnes, and Agatha Christie's home Greenway, as well as a number of pleasure cruises (indeed, whilst we were ashore, the Fairmile took a group of military enthusiasts on to Slapton Sands to investigate the disastrous Exercise Tiger.)  Across the river, the toot-toot of the South Devon steam train could be heard, its plumes of steam wafting into the air as it delivered people to and from Paignton.  The sheer amount of activity in the town was intoxicating, and really made me appreciate the fantastic variety that exists in South Devon.

If it's 15:45 then it must already be time to board the Fairmile and chug back up the coast to Torquay (but not before watching a good old-fashioned paddle steamer come noisily up the river).  We watched Dartmouth disappear around a corner of craggy cliffs, then we were out again in the open sea, traveling at quite a speed.  Just before we got to Berry Head, the boat's engines suddenly cut out and we drifted quietly.  The panic of a breakdown was quickly allayed, however; we had come to a gentle stop because our captain, with his excellent eye for wildlife, has spotted a seal sunbathing on a nearby rock.  Pandemonium ensued as everybody wanted a peek, the deck suddenly full to bursting with camera-waving tourists.  When the crowd had died down, I was able to get my own photo - isn't she beautiful?

Back in Torquay, itself looking quite fine in the late afternoon sunshine, we remarked on how much a few hours of sea air can tire you out, and we headed home, having been well-sunned, in the highest of spirits.  I hope you had a great day Lizzie!

One final note: Our day cruise was booked with Greenway Ferries, whose friendliness and service could not be faulted.  Thoroughly recommended!